Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Day 142: Agonda – the idyllic village

After three days at Benaulim, we moved further south to Agonda. It took us three bus connections to get to Agonda. All local non-AC buses and very crowded. God, we were so glad when we arrived at Agonda, and ended up spending one week here.

St. Anne's church in Agonda
sunset on Agonda beach

Agonda is a small idyllic village. A simple one-street affair with a stretch of white-sand beach. The local “fish market” consisted of four women with four baskets near the the bus stop. The place where we had most of our meals was a small grocery store. They dished up decent vegetarian and fish thalis. Cows would walk past us when we enjoyed our meals. We tried a few of the more touristy restaurants, but none of them really impressed us.

lunch at the grocery store - it's the last store at the corner, not the middle one

letting cows pass - a daily routine at Agonda
We took the most expensive room at Sweezel Guesthouse (only US$10). We had a private balcony with a view of the Arabia ocean and a large open-air patio space where in the night we would either count the shooting stars or watch movies on our laptop. When we asked for a coconut, the owner would climb up the coconut tree and cut one down. He would wait till we finish the juice and cut out the coconut flesh for us to eat. Nothing can be fresher. And it cost US$0.20.

Sweezel Guesthouse

owner climbing the coconut tree
One of our favorite spot at Agonda was the southern-end of the beach. The water was calm. There was shade under the coconut trees. Local kids would play in the water in the afternoon. Fishermen would prepare the nets for the next day's fishing. Just lying there on the beach and reading Hemingway and Mark Twain. Sigh, God knows how long this can last before mass tourism sets in.

fisherman at the south end of the beach

local kids playing in the water
katy playing with crabs
hole made by crabs - doesn't it look like a coconut tree?
katy had a taste of the Indian sour pickles - very sour indeed

4 comments:

cassandra said...

hi guys

loved your blog
im going to goa in 2 weeks...do you a phone or email contact for the sweezel guest house people...

it would be sooo great if you do.
and your blog is great!
thanks, tonyx

myTaike 我的台客 said...

hi there, sorry, no phone number. But there are plenty of rooms at Sweetzel Guesthouse, ranging in quality and price. When you get to Agonda (facing the church), turn left. It is about 10 minute walking distance on your left. You won't miss the bright color. The food is more expensive and limited in Agonda. Also, breakfast is not served at the guesthouse. But there are shops selling brown bread and jam.

cassandra said...

hi myTaike

thank you sooo much for getting back in touch.
thats very kind.

i will go there! it looks like a good place stay and do yoga on roof terrace!

the food is expensive in agonda? more expensive than the rest of goa?

tonyx

myTaike 我的台客 said...

We found that the food in Agonda is slightly more expensive than Benaulim or Hampi. But it is still cheap by Western standard. For a good value meal, get the fish thali at the last grocery store on the right of the church (50 rupees).

If you like yoga, there is a daily class taking place on top of the guest house at 4pm.